Photo: Frank Kretschmann

Redpointing an impressive route

Ines Papert climbs Scaramouche (8a)

Ines Papert redpoints the impressive and hard "Scaramouche" of Alexander and Thomas Huber on the distinctive west-face pillar of the Hoher Göll in Berchtesgaden, Germany. The route is considered to be technically challenging and has seen only a few redpoints.

German climber Ines Papert was able to score a complete redpoint ascent of the "Scaramouche" at Hoher Göll. The route was opened in 1989 by Alexander and Thomas Huber and wasn't redpointed until 20 years later. It was the first alpine 8a in the Alps. It is considered to be one of the most technically demanding alpine routes in the region and has seen few redpoints.

The character of the "Scaramouche" is technical demanding. The first pitch is the hardest, the other seven pitches are comprised of delicate slabs, reachy boulder sections, tiny crimps, finger holes and athletic climbing. Protection is sparse, long runouts prevail.

Papert knows what to expect at the beginning of September as she ties in to begin climbing. She had climbed the "Scaramouche" in the months before. Bad weather and a wet crux pitch made a redpoint impossible. Papert and her climbing partner Matthias Reiter find dry rock and a cool breeze on the morning of September 4th. Papert redpoints the first and hardest pitch first try. She completes all other pitches on her first try with the exception of the third pitch, for which she needs two attempts.

Papert once again displays her mental strength and incredible power on rock. Papert says: "I have spent about 10 to 14 days in the route over the past years. I have cursed, doubted, and laughed. Seldom have I climbed a route that was as technically demanding. My greatest respect goes to Thomas and Alexander for their first ascent of this wall, at that time, in that style, in one of the most beautiful walls of our planet, in Berchtesgaden."