News & Weblog
First Ascent of the Southwest Buttress of Mt. Waddington, B.C.
Photography by Paul McSorley
Text by Hayden Carpenter for Rock and Ice
For two days, Paul McSorley, Mayan Smith-Gobat, and Ines Papert forged a new mixed line up the remote Southwest Buttress of Mt. Waddington (northwest summit) in British Columbia. They reached the summit on August 18—claiming the first ascent of the 800-meter, 20-pitch route, which they graded 5.11+ WI3 M5 ED1. The team bivied below the summit and descended to base camp, via Angel Glacier to Dais Couloir and Dais Glacier, the next day.
“As far as I know, there have been two other attempts on the SW Buttress,” McSorley told Rock and Ice. “Though this may be the most technically difficult route on all of Wadd, I am sure that there are plenty of burly routes up to the main summit.”
Harsh conditions and the difficulty of reaching the southwest side of Mt. Waddington, along the coast, have deterred many from attempting the buttress.
In September of 2011, Tony Richardson and Jason Kruk came within two pitches of the summit ridge on the Southwest Buttress before deteriorating rime ice forced them to bail. They had approached the wall by powerboat, raft and foot from Twist Lake over the course of a week.
This report was first published on Rock and Ice.
Ines Papert repeats “The Hurting” in Scotland on February 22nd 2015
Photography: Nadir Khan
German alpinist Ines Papert has made the first female ascent of The Hurting (XI 11) at Coire an t-Sneachda in Scotland.
Ines Papert returned to Germany yesterday after a short trip to Scotland where she pulled off, amongst others, the first female ascent of The Hurting, the challenging line at Coire an t-Sneachda first climbed by Dave MacLeod in 2005 hailed, at the time, as the hardest mixed trad climb in the world.
Papert travelled north to speak at the Fort William Mountain Festival knowing she was physically on great form – thanks to her January repeat of the wildly overhanging Ritter der Kokosnuss on Breitwangflue at Switzerland’s Kandersteg – yet acutely aware that Scotland’s toughest winter climbs would demand nerves of steel. After fast repeats of The Secret (Ben Nevis) and Never mind (Coire an Lochain, Cairngorms) on Friday 20 February she made her way to Coire an t-Sneachda together with Seppi Pfnuer to try the Hurting, but it wasn’t to be: she climbed off-route, fell onto a pecker that luckily held, then battled her way to the top.
Two days later she returned, this time in full-blown Scottish winter conditions to repeat the route in about an hour of inspirational climbing, as her belayer Simon Yearsley recounts.
Read on for “A BELAYER’S PERSPECTIVE” by Simon Yearsley on Planetmountain: planetmountain.com
Joining the 17th Annual Arc’teryx Bozeman Ice Climbing Festival (December 11-15, 2013)
On Thursday, December 12 I will give a Special Presentation at the Bozeman Ice Climbing Festival. Time: 8:00 pm to 9:00 pm
Location: Emerson Crawford Theater. 111 South Grand
Admission: $15 for public, free to ALL On-Ice Clinic participants.
Ines Papert gelingt Erstbesteigung des Likhu Chuli I, 6.719 Meter
On 13 November 2013 German alpinist Ines Papert made the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed Likhu Chuli I (6719m) in Nepal, also referred to as Pig Pherago Shar. Her climbing partner Thomas Senf abandoned his attempt circa 140m below the summit due to frostbite.
Thank you to all our sponsors who supported this expedition:
Azazar, new climb on Tadrarate in Morocco’s Taghia Gorge by Aufdenblatten, Papert and Steurer
Inspired by spectacular photos of the late Kurt Albert and Toni Arbones on their 2007 route Antro.po.cene, at the start of April a strong international team comprised of Germany’s Ines Papert, Austria’s Lisi Steurer and Switzerland’s Patrik Aufdenblatten travelled to Morocco’s Taghia valley in the Central Atlas Mountains with their sights set on a striking line up the SW Face of Tadrarate.