Ines Papert, professional Ice and Rock Climber

News & Weblog

29/02/2012

Photography: Thomas Senf | visualimpact.ch

Ice Climbing Norway 2012

A team comprised of Ines Papert, Rudi Hauser, Lukas Seiwald, Kurt Astner, Emanuele Ciullo, Thomas Senf and Scott Milton has just returned from the Romsdalen region of Norway where they repeated a series of routes and made the first ascents of a number of new ice climbs.

In 2010 Austrian climber Rudi Hauser travelled to the west coast of Norway, just a few hours from Trondheim and discovered steep valleys and gigantic rock faces which although wel known amongst base jumpers, are less renowned for their ice and mixed potential. Acting on this information Hauser returned this February along with Ines Papert, Lukas Seiwald, Kurt Astner, Emanuele Ciullo, Thomas Senf and Scott Milton and the team, based in the Sunndalenfjord, scoped the climbing in the Sunndalen, Amotan, Eikesdal, Eresfjord and Trollveggen areas. Unsurprisingly, they came away with a series of important first ascents and repeats.

› Read the Trip Report

27/01/2012

Photography: Hans Hornberger

Illuminati M11+, WI 6+

Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer carried out the first female ascent of Illuminati, the incredible mixed route established by Albert Leichtfried in 2006 up in Val Lunga, Selva Gardena (Italy).

“At times you really need to know how to wait for just the right moment”. This is what German alpinist Ines Papert told planetmountain after her long, nigh six-year wait which finally resulted in the repeat of Illuminati, the superb mixed route established by Albert Leichtfried in 2006 and graded an impressive M11+ WI6+.

Papert knows Illuminati well: she had first caught sight of the drip back in 2006, together with first ascentionists Albert Leichtfried, but when the time came to repeat the line, the ice on the upper section wasn’t good enough. Papert returned for a second attempt three years later together with Kurt Astner, but this time the characteristic – and dangerous – drip hadn’t formed enough, while plans were foiled in 2010 together with another ice climbing ice – Angelika Rainer – since the temperatures were too low: climbing M11+ at -20°C with thin gloves was simply out of the question. Illuminati had captured Papert’s imagination, it remained a dream until this year when, thanks to a call from South Tyrolean guide Hubert Moroder, the right moment finally came about.

Papert walked up Val Lungo on 27 January together with Austrian Guide Lisi Steurer (the two have climbed much together in the past, and in Canada’s Cirque of the Unclimbables established Power of Silence). “Tension grew” explained Papert “and I couldn’t wait to see the route. Finally we stood at its base, it was like a dream. Glazing blue ice, the sun shone over the mountain tops, the temperature was a bit too warm for this time of year. But I felt that I might succeed.”

The route begins with a 30m M11- which leads to the roof, and this is breached with a crux pitch which leads up into the ice. “This time I climbed the roof straight off. We then climbed the ice pitches when the sun had dipped behind the mountains. We didn’t want to take any unnecessary risks, every now and then drips of ice fell down close to us” explained the German. She added “I was right opposite the drip, 30 meters high and with circa 1 meter wide. My stomach shut down. 20 meters of vertical ice lay in story, without any ice screws… would my nerves hold?” The answer came quickly “I listened to my inner feeling and had good sensations. I started to climb, higher and higher to above the point where it could have ripped and… finally placed the first good ice sceew. The other pitches followed, we reached the top and shouted for joy. Lisi for having passed her final Master’s exam, me for having passed Illuminati.”

With this ascent Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer have carried out the first female ascent of Illuminati and theirs is probably the third repeat, after Florian Riegler in 2008, and Erik Svab and Klemen Premrl that same year.

12th Oct. 2011

Expedition to Kyzyl Asker, Himalaya, September 2011

After my last two previous failed expedition attempts with Thomas Senf and Wolfgang Russegger to the “Red Soldier“, the 5842 meter high Mount Kyzyl Asker, in late fall of 2010, I knew I’d go back to try again. I traveled for the second time to the remote mountain range Kookshal Too, of Thien Shan, in Kyrgyzstan. Our goal: to ascend the South-East face of Mount Kyzyl Asker. Tried by many alpinists, without a successful ascent so far.

I would not have chosen the steep 1200 meter high wall, with a variety of difficult ice and rock climbing sections as a goal, if it wasn’t a real challenge in terms of testing both my climbing skills and mental strength. Therefore I knew what to expect. After a long winter climbing trip to Scotland, months of endurance training, and a fast ascent of Mont Blanc, I felt perfectly prepared to face this upcoming endeavor.

› Read the Expedition Report

2. Mai 2011

Repeating Super Cirill: redpoint/clean 8a/8a+

The 9 pitch route, Super Cirill, on Parete di Sonlerto is the hardest free climbing multi- pitch route in Tessin. Graded 8a/8a+, many of the cracks are interrupted by dihedrals and exposed traverses make for a technically challenging climbing experience. (200m, 7a+, 7a+, 7b+, 7c+/8a, 8a/8a+, 6c+, 6c, 6a+)

A double crack, like a hard splinter of bone, grins at me. Many years ago, fascinated with the rough granite and clean structures of this kind of climbing, I attempted this route with Stephan Siegrist. Disappointed then by the abundance of bolts, and disappointed that I wasn’t successful, I returned in May 2010, pleased to see that the past few years had seen changes: 6 bolts in the first 6 pitches, for intermediate belays where trad gear would be unsafe. Perfectly placed, perfect for me to try again.